For those of you interested in trying to climb Mt. Whitney this spring you should be aware of current conditions, and more importantly how to interpret those conditions to help you decide how to make decisions with safety in mind.
Snow is still present on Mt. Whitney left over from the winter. You can count on negotiating a snow covered trail from somewhere above Trail Camp until Trail Crest and possibly farther. From the cables until Trail Crest there are hazardous areas where a slip can turn into a fall that can lead to an injury or fatality. This section is part of what most of us refer to as the “97 Switchbacks”. The weather has been unstable since the last week in May. This coupled with the fact that the 97 switchbacks are on a north facing slope between 12,400' and over 13,600' means the snow will not melt off quickly until temperatures warm up.
Given these conditions there are certain things to keep in mind if you decide to attempt climbing Mt. Whitney via the Main Trail. This list is not exhaustive but is a good place to start:
(1) Recognize that your ascent will take longer than it would if the trail was dry. Plan extra time into your itinerary to account for this.
(2a) Realize that current conditions require climbers to have learned and practiced several mountaineering skills which include self arrest with an ice axe (this is how you would attempt to stop yourself in the event of a slip on the hard snow and ice), how to walk with crampons on, and how to efficiently climb up and down snow covered slopes.
(2b) This means that ski poles are no substitute for an ice axe. Ski poles are great aids in walking. Ascending a route they are like a portable hand rail. On a descent they help reduce some of the jarring to hiker’s knees. They will do nothing to help stop a person in case of a fall. Yes, some ski poles are made with self arrest grips. This is no substitute for an ice axe.
(3a) The slope between Trail Camp and Trail Crest is north facing. This means it loses sun exposure early in the day. You can be on this slope during a warm sunny day and find the snow comfortable to walk on, but once the sun leaves this slope the snow will become firm, hard, and slick. It will stay that way until the sun hits it again, which might be the next day, or it might take several days if clouds obscure direct rays from the sun. Even with direct sun exposure the conditions could still be firm, hard, and slick.
(3b) Be prepared to climb on firm, hard, and slick snow. If you find yourself on this slope after the sun begins leaving this area you need to be prepared to negotiate increasingly firm, hard, and slick snow conditions.
(4a) Sliding down the snow on your butt (commonly called “glissading” among the mountaineering community) from Trail Crest is not a safe option. It doesn’t matter if you see tracks from people who have previously done it. Among those who contributed to glissade tracks in previous seasons include several people who lost their lives from the decision to glissade there.
(4b) People have tried glissading here for years. Understand that this slope is subtly angled in such a way that it can pull an unsuspecting mountaineer slowly to the left, which can make you slam into the rocks at a high rate of speed. There have been many injuries and even fatalities due to people glissading here.
(4c) If you decide to glissade anywhere on any mountain, remove your crampons. Glissading with crampons is never an option. You run a high chance of injuring an ankle, a leg, or worse. It is extremely poor mountaineering technique to glissade while wearing crampons anywhere at any time.
(5a) Remember that the summit should not be your primary goal. Your first goal is to get back to the parking lot safely. If you can stay within a good margin of safety, then the summit should be your second goal. This means that just because somebody else decided to ascend in questionable conditions it should not determine what you decide to do. You need to make your decisions based on your known skills and the ability of your group.
(6) There have been reports of people leaving crampons and ice axes in their cars because people down below told them they weren't needed or were too dangerous for the inexperienced. Don't take that advice at face value. Ask questions about conditions and get reports from as many people as possible. If in doubt, don't leave the gear behind. It's better to take it and not need it than the other way around.
